where bangkok actually eats after dark

i've lived here my whole life and i do food tours on weekends and i still get asked "where should i eat". ok. here's the honest version.

yaowarat (chinatown), 7pm

mrt to wat mangkon. walk the main road once, then turn into the side streets — that's where the stalls without english menus are. order the guay jub (rolled noodles in pepper broth) from the stall with the green sign. 60 thb. yes sixty.

jodd fairs, 6pm sharp

the only night market i'd actually send you to. go early or no table. everyone photographs the volcano pork ribs. eat the grilled squid two rows behind instead. 120 thb.

the river, any time

skip the tuk tuk. chao phraya express (orange flag, 16 thb) from tha tien to saphan taksin is the best view in the city and it costs less than a bottle of water. i'm not kidding

what to skip

khao san road. rooftop bars with a dress code. anywhere with a "thai food" sign in three languages.

come hungry. wear something you don't mind smelling like charcoal 🔥